This refers to '00 and '01 XJs with a handful of '99s.

I've been having periodic problems starting my XJ and I was figuring it to be my fuel pump or back pressure valve. It was taking two to three key turns to get the engine to fire. Then I got a check engine light with the code saying it was my Cam Position Sensor. Kinda scratched my head on that since I had replaced it about 4 months ago when it literally melted.


Well, I pulled the sensor off and noticed little black chips inside and noticed that the potting material for the Hall Effect transistor was abraded. Something was hitting the sensor and the only thing I could see was the pulse ring. I stuck my finger inside the pulse ring and it moved. It actually wobbled about 1/32". Not good as it should be as it should have next to no movement.

I got on line and found a Doorman 689-200 (direct replacement) for $21.64. That was about $80 less than most place plus it came with a new Sensor (which by the way Dorman doesn't supply). I found it an odd combination and an unbelievable price. But, since it was Amazon, I could return it if it wasn't correct.

Upon receipt of the part, all looked good and I proceeded to remove the old sensor. I made note of the synchronizers alignment with the engine and then the pulse rings position. I removed the hold down clamp then gently pulled the synchronizer upward taking note of the rotation of the pulse ring and it's final position and the position of the oil pump shaft key.


On comparing the location of the pulse ring and pump shaft between the old and new, I saw one reason why the new synchronizer was cheaper, it wasn't manufactured correctly. The pump shaft key was out of sync with the pulse ring.


Not an insurmountable issue as I just had to get a long screwdriver and rotate the oil pump receiver. After several tries, I finally got it right and the new synchronizer went into place. I made sure the alignment of the synchronizer and pulse ring were identical with the original and clamped it down.

I installed the new sensor and went to install the plug and the plug would go on the sensor. I pulled the sensor off and compared the receptacle with the old and they looked identical. I tried plugging it in again and it still wouldn't fit. On closer comparison, the receptacle on the new sensor had thicker edges. Just enough to keep the plug from being inserted. I decided to use the original sensor and it went together fine and the engine started with no problems. So, getting an improperly manufactured sensor with the synchronizer wasn't so bad when you consider the cost anyway. I may spend some time with a file and see if I can't clean the sensor receptacle up enough that it can be used as a spare.

Wow, man, I would've freaked out with all of the roadblocks you had...

Probably why I avoid the newer Jeeps. *L*

A good write-up though, hopefully it'll help someone who's going through the same thing. Was the old shaft/synchronizer thingie worn out?

Yup, worn out big time. I showed it to my favorite parts guy and he commented that after 30 years in the business, he's never seen one as bad as what I showed him.

*L* It's strangely gratifying when you make that sort of impression, isn't it?

Ya, but it's a PIA way to do it.